Idyllwild

There are a half-dozen serviceable motels in this funky, downscale mountain community. For many years, the hands-down consensus pick for thru-hikers has been the Tahquitz Inn (25840 Highway 243, 951 659-4554, 877 659-4554 toll-free). Management has done everything possible to extend itself to the PCT community. That is why when the pack rolls through each year it's not uncommon to see the entire motel booked solid -- and just a couple cars in the lot. The rooms are very clean and feature complete kitchens. The PCT discount is substantial. When I came through in the first week of May 2005, a serious snowstorm sent dozens of hikers around Fuller Ridge into town in search of refuge. The Inn's staff bent every rule in the book to make sure nobody was turned away, even juggling to pack hikers five-to-a-room.

In 2006, the Tahquitz Inn's legendary hospitality was sorely tested by a handful of thru-hikers who, among other things, badmouthed the staff, destroyed rooms, snuck in their non-paying buddies and generally behaved like thoughtless idiots. This type of "Animal House" behavior will almost always have a negative impact on future hikers. Despite their consternation, the Inn's management elected to keep the hiker discount in place. But if bad incidents such as these continue to occur, the hiker welcome mat will almost certainly be withdrawn. It's incumbent on everyone within the trail community to police the bad actors within our tribe. Let them know it's utterly unacceptable to poison the well for future PCT classes.

The other hostelry with a longstanding (20-year-plus) history of PCT hospitality is the Idyllwild Inn (54300 Village Center Rd., 888 659-2552). They, too, offer a hiker discount and trailhead shuttles (when available). Now this is impressive: Free hiker laundry service. Anyone who will handle hiker socks, let alone gratis, is a true friend of the PCT. On location, they have the edge over Tahquitz, which is just slightly north of the main commercial hub. The four "theme rooms" ("Indian," "Old West," "French Country" and "Camp" -- seriously) represent the best value. Although several hikers splitting one of the cabins could be an even better deal. Note the two-night minimum stay on weekends. Also note that this is not a generic motel. The Inn, which is more than 100 years old, has been in the White family's hands for nearly half that time -- so there is some tradition here and a great deal of pride.

On the restaurant front, Jo-An's is still generating very sketchy reviews. Check out La Casita (54650 N. Circle Dr., 951 659-6038), a very good Mexican restaurant with superior atmosphere and warm service, a few blocks off the beaten path. For a hearty, homey breakfast or lunch (and a waitress who will call you "Hon") right in the hub of the action, consider the fabled JC's Red Kettle (54200 Circle Dr., 951 659-4063). The new kid on the block is El Diablo Cafe (54225 N. Circle Dr. #13, 951 659-2560), with well-reviewed burgers and pizza in an atmosphere that has been characterized as over-the-top and vaguely (gasp) goth. How un-Idyllwildian!