John F. Stevens, for whom Stevens Pass is named, was the chief locating engineer to plot the route of the Great Northern Railway through the Cascades. He would go on to later fame as the builder of the Panama Canal.
The history of Skykomish is the history of the Great Northern Railway. Today, the relationship between railroading and the little town on the Skykomish River remains symbiotic. The town, known simply as "Sky" to locals and train operators, is a living museum to the glory that was Great Northern (the goat mascot is seldom far from sight). And the Burlington Northern is still the main economic force in the area. If you love trains, this will be your favorite town stop. If you don't, then maybe you'd be better off hitching east from the pass to Leavenworth. About 20 trains roll through Skykomish each day. The "Empire Builder," the line's last surviving passenger train, comes through twice a day, en route between Seattle and Chicago. The Cascadia Inn (210 Railroad Ave. E., 360 677-2030) is a handsome old rooming house that dates from the 1920s. Although most of the 14 rooms have shared baths, this is no dive. The rooms are immaculate and much nicer than one might assume from the outside. They represent an excellent value. Space in the bunkroom runs $25. Owner/manager Henry Sladek is an outstanding host, very attuned to the ways of thru-hikers. With the Sky Chalet long-shuttered, the Inn's cafe is the only bona fide restaurant in town as of 2006. Although it was open seven days a week in the summer of 2006, restaurant hours may be a moving target. Stick to the decent burgers and sandwiches.
The Sky River Inn (333 River Dr. E., 360 677-2261) is a standard motel, with rates much higher than the Cascadia. The third lodging choice isn't a hotel at all: Dinsmore's River Haven is the home of trail angels Andrea and Jerry Dinsmore, located on the river a little ways out of town. You may call them from the pay phone at the pass or from in town: 360 677-1237 or 206 954-2521.
The Whistling Post Tavern (116 Railroad Ave. E., 360 677-2333) is the latest incarnation of a saloon that was started by Patrick McEvoy, the engineer on the first scheduled train to go through Skykomish in 1893. There are some fine people in back of the bar, and some local color in front of it. Mind your manners. We didn't try the chicken nuggets and other comestibles from the deep-fryer. For those eating lite, there are also sausages and microwaved nachos. A very comfortable place to kill a few hours. (Let's face it: There's just not a lot of action in Skykomish outside the Whistling Post and the Cascadia. Sometimes Railroad Avenue can feel as deserted as the soundstage of a Hollywood western after dark.)
The most striking thing about Skykomish today: For a near-ghost-town there's an awful lot of construction going on. The Burlington Northern is spending untold millions on a multi-year project to clean up 100 years of environmental damage, primarily fuel spills that seeped under homes, the town hall, a church and many of the landmark buildings in the town. This also involves a massive reshaping of the banks of the Skykomish River. In the summer of 2006, five homes were picked up like so many Monopoly tokens and moved to make way for the cleanup. Eventually, they will be moved back. The railroad may ultimately end up having to excavate half the town to complete the cleanup.