Independence is much smaller than neighboring Lone Pine -- something between a bona fide town and a wide spot in the road. For full-service amenities and superior lodging we strongly recommend the 20-minute drive south on 395 to Lone Pine. Still, if you're looking for an east-side resupply option to break up that long haul from Kennedy Meadows to Vermilion Valley Resort, Kearsarge Pass is the preferred lateral and Independence is the nearest settlement with a post office.

If you're coming out over Kearsarge, there are three motels on the main drag, Edwards Street. All are older motor courts, with rooms in the $60 range in-season. From the road we couldn't see much difference between the three:

The Courthouse Motel, (157 N. Edwards St., 760 878-2732)

Ray's Den Motel, (405 N. Edwards St., 760 878-2122)

The Mt. Williamson Motel, (515 S. Edwards St., 866 428-4352) This is a hiker-friendly operation with laundry on site and a hot breakfast included in the room rate.

Additionally, if frou-frou quilts and antiques are your thing, the Winnedumah Hotel (no address listed, 760 878-2040) is a bed-and-breakfast in a refurbished 1920s hotel. The Wilder House B&B (325 Dusty Lane, 760 878-2119), frequently mentioned in PCT discussions because of its trailhead shuttle service, is out of business as of the 2004 season because of a fire. The Wilder House trailhead shuttle is also history, as of late 2007.

As of 2008, the only bankable food operation in Independence is reportedly the Subway sandwich shop in the Chevron station (130 S. Edward St., 760 878-2618).

As unlikely as this may sound, there is an unusual bistro featuring artful nouvelle French and North African fare, on the former site of the Sierra Grill: The Still Life Cafe (135 S. Edwards St., 760 878-2555). Hours are highly erratic and it can reportedly take more than an hour for your food to appear. How very French.