Independence is much smaller than neighboring Lone Pine -- something between a bona fide town and a wide spot in the road. For full-service amenities and superior lodging we strongly recommend the 20-minute hitch south on 395 to Lone Pine. Still, if you're looking for an east-side resupply option to break up that long haul from Kennedy Meadows to Vermilion Valley Resort, Kearsarge Pass is the preferred lateral and Independence is the nearest settlement with a post office.

If you're coming out over Kearsarge, there are three motels on the main drag, Edwards Street. All are older motor courts, with rooms in the $60 range in-season. From the road we couldn't see much difference between the three:

The Courthouse Motel, (157 N. Edwards St., 760 878-2732)

Ray's Den Motel, (405 N. Edwards St., 760 878-2122)

The Mt. Williamson Motel, (515 S. Edwards St., 866 428-4352) This is a hiker-friendly operation with laundry on site and a hot breakfast included in the room rate.

Additionally, if frou-frou quilts and antiques are your thing, the Winnedumah Hotel (211 N. Edwards St., 760 878-2040) is a bed-and-breakfast in a refurbished 1920s hotel right on the highway, next to the Courthouse Motel.

As of 2009, things are looking up on the restaurant front. The Subway sandwich shop in the Chevron station (130 S. Edward St., 760 878-2618) is no longer the only game in town. You'll find Hooligan's Bar and Grill (Market Street and Hwy. 395, 760 878-2608) in a faux-Victorian gingerbread monstrosity that looks like it was exported from some amusement park. We have yet to try it.

As unlikely as this may sound, there is an unusual bistro featuring artful nouvelle French and North African fare, on the former site of the Sierra Grill: The Still Life Cafe (135 S. Edwards St., 760 878-2555). Hours are highly erratic and it can reportedly take more than an hour for your food to appear. How very French.