The Cascade Rapids that once roared past here were a severe impediment to economic activity and travel in the Columbia River Gorge. A portage railroad -- with mules towing flatcars -- was built around the rapids in 1851. The monumental engineering struggle to build locks took from 1875 to 1896. The original cost of $1.2 million ultimately soared to $3.8 million, an unbelievable sum for the day.

Today, the remains of the locks are part of the city's Marine Park, a popular venue for outdoor weddings (and a very un-restful place to camp, thanks to the steady Union Pacific rail traffic). On the sides of the locks you can see the traditional wooden platforms still used by local Indians to fish for Chinook salmon and steelhead. The fish are often sold out of coolers by the roadside under Bridge of the Gods or in the nearby restaurant parking area, fishing being a major economic force for the Indians. In some years, the steelhead run may peak just as most thru-hikers are coming through town. If you purchase one of these beauties, make sure you have at least a half-dozen very hungry hikers to help you eat it.

Cascade Locks is a very compact town. Everything you need is on WaNaPa Street, the main drag -- with the Bridge of the Gods, the Charburger and the Best Western at the top of the hill on the west end and the hardware/liquor store anchoring the east.

The Best Western Columbia River Inn (735 WaNaPa St., 541 374-8777) is the top choice for lodging, located in the shadow of the Bridge of the Gods, just a few feet from the trail. We found a very friendly and accommodating staff, huge rooms and a great view of the river. It's not cheap by PCT standards, but we still believe it's a fair value, with laundry, hot tub and pool on-site, plus the usual free breakfast. Be advised to call the front desk directly for a reservation. In 2006, when several Web travel consolidators and the Best Western chain's own site reported no vacancies, a call directly to the hotel proved otherwise. There was a rumored PCT discount of 10 percent at one time. It wasn't in effect in 2006.

The second-choice motel, Bridge of the Gods Motel and RV Park (630 WaNaPa St., 541 374-8628) is just across the road and down the hill a block from the Best Western. This older facility, with '50s-era motor-court units and more contemporary attached rooms, has been the scene of a couple of bad thru-hiker incidents over the years. As of 2006, it's still hiker-friendly. The older units, with kitchenettes, are the better value and were undergoing renovation in 2006. There is a third motel further down the strip, the Econo Inn (400 WaNaPa St., 541 374-8628). We don't recommend it.

As of late 2007 there's big news out of Cascade Locks' most beloved eatery and social hall, the Salmon Row Pub (500 WaNaPa St., 541 374-9310). The pub, one of the finest eating and drinking establishments on the entire trail, was purchased in July by the husband-and-wife team of Jeff and Connie Ganz, who promptly re-christened it the Pacific Crest Pub and Hostel.

The venerable restaurant's menu -- outstanding pizza, burgers, salmon specialties and sandwiches -- is largely unchanged. And you'll still find ten beers on tap, including two varieties of the Walking Man IPA (brewed right on the other side of the river), Black Butte Porter, Mirror Pond and Mt. Hood Cloudcap. And for hikers who didn't get enough daredevil antics on the trail, they make and bottle their own gourmet horseradish. (The restaurant, always hiker-friendly, had maintained an informal trail register in a loose-leaf notebook behind the bar. You might wish to inquire with the barkeep if it's still there.) This ramshackle boarding house is nearly 100 years old, built to house Bonneville Dam workers. The last time it housed overnight guests above the bar was in the bygone era when it was known as Suzie's Suds Shack. The Ganzes intend to remodel the funkier-than-thou building this winter and add a hiker's hostel with dorm-style lodging. As of spring 2008, the tentative opening for the lodging operation has been pushed back to May 2009. After the establishment of the PCTA regional office in Cascade Locks recently, this is the most exciting news for hikers in a long time. The Pub clearly has the potential to become the de facto home base for thru-hikers.

Charburger (735 WaNaPa St., 541 374-8477) is a gorge landmark, little changed over the past 50 years. Definitely go once (preferably for breakfast) just to see the incredible collection of artifacts and memorabilia on the dining room walls. But give it a pass for lunch or dinner. The cafeteria-style operation has a menu stuck in a steam-table-era time-warp. Not a good value.

Other food options on the main drag include the always-busy East Wind Drive In (395 WaNaPa St., 541 374-8380), a burger shack with soft-serve ice cream, legendary shakes and many fried temptations. Johnny's Ice Cream and Deli (424 WaNaPa St., 541 374-0080) runs the gamut from soup to espresso. The Cascade Inn (410 WaNaPa St., 541 374-8340) is a diner and cocktail lounge.

As of August 2006, the State of Oregon had signed off on the highly controversial plan for the Warm Springs Indian tribe to build a major casino/resort complex on a parcel of low-lying industrial land. The casino is strongly backed by the city and opposed by environmentalists and competing gaming interests. The tribe still must secure federal approval for the new casino, which is many miles from its reservation. Groundbreaking could be years away.