Bridgeport
Chances are good you will see many men in fatigues and camo on the streets of Bridgeport. Some kind of fashion statement. They fall into two categories -- deer hunters (X12 is a busy zone for both rifle and bowhunting) and Marines. The Marine Corps' mountain warfare training center is at Pickel Meadow, just north of town on the road up to Sonora Pass. The Marines come into town almost daily and tend to frequent the latte shop.

Bridgeport is a far superior town stop to neighborhing Lee Vining (which is just 20 minutes down 395, but several days away by trail reckoning). While the town doesn't cater to PCT hikers (we're a tiny blip compared to fishermen, RVers, Harley riders, etc) it's got most of what you need, short of a full-service supermarket and a real outfitter. (Unfortunately, the hitch in here from Sonora Pass can be one of the longest on the PCT.) You'll find at least a half-dozen good motels of older vintage, all clustered tightly on a compact stretch of six blocks along Interstate 395. From north to south along 395: The Redwood Motel (425 Hwy. 395; 760 932-7060) is certainly the most visually arresting of the bunch, with a garage sale worth of assorted "folk art", including a fiberglass burro, assorted cow skulls and other kitsch. Motto: "Stop for the critters. Stay for the calm." An interesting hook: They fly flags of various nations outside each room. One wonders if each room is somehow tied thematically to the flag outside. The Cain House, (340 Main St., 760 932-7040) is an attractive, reasonably priced B&B. The Silver Maple Inn (310 Hwy. 395; 760-932-7383) is a very attractive older motor court we haven't tried. It is associated with the neighboring Cain House.

The Best Western Ruby Inn (333 Main St., 760 932-7241) is a clean, unremarkable motel, but no bargain. We've stayed there several times but probably won't be back because they tend to be $20-$30 above the going rate for the town. The Victorian Hotel (no visible street number, 760 932-7020) may be the oldest rooming house in town. And it's certainly the cheapest (at $39.95 in 2007). Be sure to take a good look at the rooms here before you commit. In 2007, to the casual passer-by on the street, it was far from clear whether this was a going concern or not. At the south end of the main drag, there's the Walker River Lodge (100 Hwy. 395; 800 688-3351) probably the nicest motel in town.

On the culinary front, we strongly recommend the Bridgeport Inn (205 Main St., 760 932-7380) for a big celebratory dinner. Great, very expensive steaks and a respectable wine list in an 1877-era Victorian hotel (which, sadly, was on the market in late 2007). Very fine dining you can appreciate in shorts and Tevas (a shirt would probably be a good idea as well). Rhino's Bar and Grill (226 Hwy. 395; 760 932-7345) is our second, much-more-affordable, much-more-casual go-to choice in Bridgeport, with very solid pizza and burgers and a dining atmosphere that might be described as a cross between a camp cafeteria and a beer hall. The chicken wings are not something for lightweights play around with. The "hot" are truly hot. Avoid the nuclear option on the wings. Jolly Kone (187 Hwy. 395; 760 932-7555) is a classic burger-and-ice-cream shack. The sign, a classic in its own right, reads "Ice cream, burritos, burgers, massage." Indeed!

The Sportsmen's Inn (760 932-7020) is an unremarkable diner and bar that was up for sale as of September 2007. The The Hays Street Cafe (21 Hays St., 760 932-7141) is a breakfast-and-lunch-only place at the south end of the main drag. Standard breakfast fare. Lunch is mostly burgers and sandwiches. Pop's Gallery (241 Hwy. 395; 760 932-1172) is the new kid in town, with burgers, fish and chips and a sign promising "laundromat and showers." Didn't seem to be attracting a lot of business in 2007.

NOTE: On Oct. 1, 2007, the (northern) Kennedy Meadows Resort -- which had long been the alternate source for food, lodging and resupply at Sonora Pass -- suffered a devastating fire which destroyed the main lodge and seven cabins. The resort's owners have vowed to open for the 2008 season and have a basic store in operation by Memorial Day. As per the resort's Web page, there will not be restaurant service until the lodge is rebuilt. Before counting on the lodge's services, it would be advisable to call (209) 965-3900 for the most recent information.