La Porte, the tiny community south of Quincy, is reputed by local boosters to have been the site of the country's first organized downhill ski racing, with competitors on 12-foot ''longboards'' in the late 1800's. The top contenders reportedly reached speeds above 80 miles per hour -- with speeds no doubt climbing with each barroom retelling. Longboard races are still held on local slopes each year.

Do not spend any more time than absolutely necessary in Belden. Five minutes is more than enough. The privately owned "town and resort" is a dump, a long-neglected river compound with a very creepy vibe. There is little in the store of value other than beer. No lodging to speak of. And a saloon from which the aforementioned vibe emanates. As of mid-2004, online sources said the operation would no longer accept hiker resupply boxes -- which pretty much eliminates your last possible reason for wanting to stop there. Cross the bridge to the highway and make the 30-minute hitch up the hill to Quincy.

Our dislike for Belden is counterbalanced by our great enthusiasm for Quincy . The full-service town of 1,900 -- 25 miles up the Feather River Canyon -- is a nearly ideal base station for a section hike in this area. And no, for some inexpelicable reason, it is not in the PCT town guide. Amenities include more than a dozen restaurants, a Safeway, a Rite-Aid and all the other metropolitan conveniences. Consider it your first and last real supply option between Truckee and Mt. Shasta City on Interstate 5.

Of the seven motels in Quincy, we favor the Gold Pan (200 Crescent St., 530 283-3686) a semi-funky operation at the north end of the main drag. In the event the Gold Pan is full, which it often is on the weekends, the Plan B option directly across the highway is the Spanish Creek Motel (233 Crescent St., 530 283-1200). Everything you'll need is within easy walking distance of these two motels.

Moon's (497 Lawrence St. 530 283-0765) is our strongly recommended first choice for steak, chicken, pasta and pizza. (We particularly recommend the pizza.) On a warm summer night ask for a table on the back patio. A local cat will be along shortly to provide the evening's entertainment. Excellent service. Excellent value.

For breakfast, the obvious pick is Morning Thunder , (557 Lawrence St., 530 283-1310), right around the block from the aforementioned motels. They also have a decent lunch menu with burgers, Mexican and vegetarian offerings, all a little bit on the pricey side.

Speaking of burgers, Stoney's Country Burger (11 Lindan Ave., 530 283-3911) has one of the largest menus we've ever encountered. A hundred items, easily, including half-pound and one-pound monstrosities-on-a-bun.